Rjukan, Norway Ice & Heavy Water

Climbing at Gausta above the Rjukan Valley, Norway

Finally, having heard so much about the incredible ice climbing in Norways Rjukan valley Jo and I got there. However, we did arrive during a particularly warm period with temps in the plus figures it wasn’t quite the roadside ice cragging I was heard all about over the last few years. That said we did fine ice and did have a great week and certainly a spot to return to. It clearly is a superb place for ice climbing as there seems to be a lot of waterfalls in the area, annoyingly many of them if not most in full flow.

We initially had a look at the more famous areas such as Vemork and Korken gorges which would have had some ice building until recently perhaps, but it was now falling apart in the temperatures and rain. I wasn’t keen on attempting any climbing in the gorges as there was a lot of ice but with lots of water running under it and enough that if it fell would be pretty serious.

Jo starting up pitch 1 on Gausta Slabs Left WI3

We decided to take things as high as possible instead and did get some good climbing in the Gausta area on the edge of the vast Hardangervidda plateau and on the flanks of Telmarks highest summit Gaustatoppen (1883mts).

A great set of falls and more than enough for our short trip and to enjoy some ice thankfully. Perhaps we were to be easily pleased leaving behind the Highlands which were also under heavy thaw conditions.

Gausta area perched on the edge of the Hardangervidda plateau

We climbed various pitches of really good ice which despite the high temps had stayed relatively fat. A mid-week freeze helped giving a nice and cold day. We climbed one route in the guide Gausta Slabs left which was given WI3 but you could have ranged from 2 to 4 with a variety of lines on it to choose from. The guide suggested that snowshoes or skis would be the way forward should there be more snow and I can easily see why on the short walk back round from the top of the crag. We also climbed on a crag not far from Sveneroi which offered some good almost roadside cragging.

After a good day climbing things dipped again with very warm wind and rain which made the thought of going higher less appealing.

Vemork powerplant and scene of operation Gunnerside in WW2

We did check out the Vemork power plant museum which was the scene of operation Gunnerside. Many will have seen the 1960’s film ‘The Heroes of Telemark’ a daring war story of a team who took out the plant under Nazi control and being used to produce Heavy Water. A material essential in the production of Atomic bombs. One which had it been produced may well have landed on the UK. Well worth a visit and glad I have now visited having watched the film as a child and rolled out the fact that they trained on the Cairngorm plateau to many guests.

So a short but sweet trip and somewhere we will certainly be returning to and I hope very soon.

Its all gone a bit Scottish, thawing, wet and windy but still fun